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Help on feeding bearded dragon?

Help on feeding bearded dragon? Topic: Alfalfa research
July 15, 2019 / By Emmie
Question: I'm going to get a bearded dragon. i already know alot.But im still unsure about feeding them.As in how much crickits, mealworms do thay need to eat per day. im most likely geting a year old one. i also was researching them and found about this white powder you put on the crickits.now what is that for and do i need it in order to feed them surten things.Baceicly i need all the info i can get on what to, how to, and how much to feed them.
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Best Answers: Help on feeding bearded dragon?

Cicely Cicely | 8 days ago
Just to clear up something first, the crickets or insects offered should be no bigger than the width between the beardies eyes. Hatchlings and juveniles should be offered crickets or woodies 2 or 3 times a day, as much as they can eat in 5 to 10 mintues. They should also be offered greens every day, spraying with water can help keep these fresh and keep the bearded hydrated. Sub adults and adults only need to be fed insects once per day - again as much as they will eat in 5 to 10 minutes, along with greens. Staple foods include : crickets, alfalfa (plant not sprouts), prickly pear, collard greens, dandelion greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, endive, escarole, all types of squash, silkworms Occasional foods include : alfalfa sprouts, peeled apple, apricot, green beans (canned or raw), kidney beans (canned), lima beans (canned), blueberries, bok choy, celery (stalk and leaves), peeled cumcumber, dahlia flower, grapes, mango, peach, pear, pineapple, plum, raw pumpkin, seedless raisins, strawberries, raw zucchini, kale The powder you are talking of is calcium powder, you can also buy a multivitamin powder to dust their crickets with. The amount you should dust is listed below : Calcium – under a year old ( every day ), 1-2 years old ( 6 days per week ), over 2 years old ( 5 days per week ), prebreeding or gravid ( 6 days per week ) Vitamins – under a year old ( 4 days per week ), 1-2 years old ( 3 days per week ), over 2 years old ( 2 days per week ), prebreeding or gravid ( 3 days per week ) I hope this helps!
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Cicely Originally Answered: I have a bearded Dragon.what do I do now?
next time please try and do a little more prepartion before adopting an animal b/c no knowing how to care for them properly can put their lives in danger. First you need a substrate or bedding. Aspen bedding is good for dragons and if you don't have any, you can use paper towels or newspaper. AFter that you put your water bowl in, put the hide in and put the wood under were the basking lamp will be. You place the basking lamp at one end of the tank and the UVB can be put directly next to it or if the dragon hangs out a lot on the cool end, place it there. When you feed it cricekts, you throw them in a bag w/ some of your vitamin/calcium powder mixed, shake it up and then feed your dragon the crickets. A dragon at a yr old, you'll want to give him crickets probably 3 days a week. The other three days you'll need another dish to give him salads. The salads need to be made up mainly of dark leafy greens like collard, dandilions, bok choy, etc. w/ some veggies and a small amount of fruit. Here is a page that will give you an idea of what's appropriate. keep the lights on for 12 hrs and off 12 hrs. I'm not sure what website you're going to but there are a lot of very good caresheets out there. Type in bearded dragon and caresheet into google or go to beardeddragon.org. here's a youtube link for setting up a cage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIOKxf5uu... this is for list of veggies: http://www.blackninjakitty.com/herps/car...

Ayeesha Ayeesha
you do no longer say how massive they are so i'm guessing they are hatchlings.substantial to maintain the bearded dragons heat sufficient, firstly. the exterior could seem as a easy tan, if it appears that evidently dark, then the dragon is in basic terms too chilly and could no longer digest the nutrition or pass around. greater useful to feed bugs that are too small than too super. maximum of a hatchlings nutrition plan could be dark, leafy green vegetables like: Romaine lettuce and such for the diet A. Shred small quantities of carrot, dandelion green and flower, small quantities, very nearly all squashes. in case you have Madagascar Hissing Roaches as pets, you are able to enhance them to feed the greater youthful to the dragons. otherwise, a million/4" kinfolk crickets and a few wax worms each week. boost the dimensions of crickets because of the fact the dragons get larger. Wax worms are intense in Phosphorous. Meal worms are not the suited nutritional decision, even although Leopard Geckos thrive on them. Pinky Mice, massive Mealworms and Superworms could be prevented till the Dragons are truly super. do no longer feed in extra.exterior, wild bugs are astonishing snacks as long as you're taking those precautions first:areas should not be sprayed with pesticides, capture in basic terms Moths and mushy bodied bugs without stingers or beaks and lightning bugs are poisonous. Dragons are friendly except truly mishandled.
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Abihail Abihail
They eat three times a day. Once in the morning, once in the afternoon and once in the evening. Each time they will either 10 mealworms, 5 supers, 1 big locust or 5 crickets. It all depends on the size of the food as to how much you feed them. The white powder is a calcium supplement and all food should be dusted with it before they are fed. Also the food should be gut loaded (full to the brim with lettuce) so the dragons get as much out of it as they can.
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Sullivan Sullivan
The best thing is to ask the person you are getting it from what they feed and follow that. Mine gets crickets, celery tops,carrots,all kinds of grass, grasshoppers. The powder for the crickets is a calcium vitamin supplement or simply a calcium supplement depending on what one you get. It is good for the lizard so use it. Try different vegies with your dragon, if they don't like something they will let you know by hissing at it.
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Parker Parker
you said you did research but it looks like you didnt look enough or you are looking in the wrong places. for one go to repticzone.com and sign up and ppl there will help you. for two go to beautifuldragons.com and there you will find the feeding information. for three do a lot more research b4 u go and buy this little guy or girl. and then you will be a good mommy
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London London
one year olds only need to be fed a couple times a week. most of their diet should consist of veggies and greens. the powder is calcium dust and dust the crickets one time per week. only feed them as much as they will eat in 5 minutes.
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Jasper Jasper
The site listed below features a care sheet for bearded dragons. --------------------------------------... "FEEDING * HATCHLINGS (up to 2 months). Mist / Spray - twice or three times daily with tepid water Young Insects - 2 or 3 times daily - Calcium dust once every day and two to three times with a multivitamin. Insects should never any longer than the space between a Beardie's eyes Greens/Vegetables - every day - DO NOT dust * JUVENILES Insects - 1 or 2 times daily; Dust every other day with Calcium and two or three times a week with Multivitamins. Greens/Vegetables in the morning every day - DO NOT dust * SUB-ADULTS & ADULTS Insects 2 or 3 times weekly - Calcium dust once a week and vitamins once or twice monthly. Greens/Vegetables - every day - DO NOT dust." --------------------------------------... This question / answer might also help: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080609114640AAYoofP --------------------------------------... I've read that it is hard to really overfeed them, but many bearded dragons are still overweight, which is unhealthy. Sorry I can't give specific details myself, since I've never owned one, but these sources should help. Good luck with the pet, and I hope you enjoy it =) Edit: Haha, the other guy answered it spot on. I hope my links helped a little bit too!
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Jasper Originally Answered: Bearded Dragon Set-up Help?
Well I don't know any breeders that sell beardies for 30 bucks or less - that's a tight budget. I'd be reluctant to purchase from a pet store as the beardies are often times jammed into tanks that are too small with too many babies and sand is usually the substrate used. By the times you bring it home, the possible health problems are endless. If you're looking for a normal beardie (not a morph, like snow, red, lemon, translucent etc.) then you're probably looking at spending btw 55-75 bucks. I'd be hesitant to buy one for under $30. That seems very Low. Shelf liner is a great substrate for babies and I know many reputable breeders who use it. I personally prefer ceramic tiles (cut to fit the tank size). I buy sand and put a little in to fill in the cracks (which are very small, not even wide enough for a cricket to fit into) and I pack it down and then sweep up any excess sand and remove it so the beardie doesn't actually have sand as substrate, theres just a little bit filling in the cracks and it padded down well. I love the look of this and it's ridiculously easy to clean!! Just spot clean and wipe it down! Never have to replace it either. But the shelf liner is great too. The only thing I would recommend is don't look for the cheapest beardie around. Find a good breeder and pay what they're selling them for, even if it's over budget. If you can't afford a price Tag of 60-70 bucks then chances are you definitely can't afford to take your beardie to a vet should he get sick. It's my opinion that part of the cost of a pet is having a buffer of cash put aside for vet visits. There's far too many questions on here that start with.....my beardies sick and I don't have enough money for a vet....help please!!!! That's irresponsible and not fair to the animal. This is a general comment and not aimed at you or anyone else but since this is your first reptile you need to understand that a beardie requires a vet that specializes in herps and they can be expensive and sparse so make sure you have one on hand should you need it - in addition to the money that's put aside, just incase. All the best....

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