Dog aggressive with toys and food?

Dog aggressive with toys and food? Topic: Chain case stay
June 17, 2019 / By Penney
Question: My dog stole an avocado seed and took it under the bed. I called him several times, but he wouldn't come, so I went looking for him. I didn't want him to get sick from eating it. I found him under the bed, when I bent down he started growling. I told him "no" and tried to shoo him from the seed. He nearly bit me. I scolded again and shooed him from the seed. Took it, growled and nearly bit again. Then he got out from under the bed. I threw out the seed and told him "no, go lay down" and again he freaked out and nearly bit me. I ended up having to hold him down on his back to calm him down. He freaks out whenever he has food or toys, and runs away if you are too close to them. Then he comes back and drops the toy at my feet to play fetch. No problems then. It's only when I try to take something he shouldn't have, that he acts out like this... I haven't been bitten yet, luckily I'm quick. I don't want to deal with that risk of being bit by my dog though. I love him, I don't want to be forced to take him back to the shelter for biting someone. He also hates strangers, strays, and men. ...Yes men, specifically with baseball caps. I don't know why, I assume a past owner abused him since he was returned to the shelter twice for aggression. I'm just starting to notice why they'd take him back... I don't want to give up on him, he's been through enough. I just don't know how to handle this. Obedience training maybe? Would that help with object aggression and aggression towards strangers? Info about the dog: He is a two year old, 8 pounds, Chiweenie mix. Been returned to the shelter twice. Shelter workers warned I'd most likely bring him back. I've had him for about three months. He HATES men, though he now trusts my dad. He gets along well with our other animals, but sometimes he just suddenly freaks out and snaps at them. I assume it's because he's a small dog. Since people have told me they are aggressive. I almost named him Napoleon. He does not always come when I call him. He squeezes past me to run out the door when I tell him to stay. Unless I have my purse, if I do he just sits while I walk out. He can jump about 3 feet in the air, so I'm worried about bites to people who come to the door. We have to put him in a separate room when people come to the door, so he doesn't squeeze out after them. He seems to understand not to bother people on the road, but I'm still worried about that. He seems to have a digging issue. He knows the beg command, a past owner must have taught him. I've tried other commands, he doesn't seem to know any. (besides stay, again only if I have my purse) I've taken him to the vet, he needed dental work, he still is having aggression though. Any advice at all would be appreciated. I only take things from him that will hurt him. Like seeds, broken toys, things like plastic that he tears and eats, wood that he brings in. He goes outside frequently, I don't want to use a chain since he stays with the other dogs, and there are very large predatory birds out here. I don't want him to be a sitting duck. He has plenty of space and our home is very calm. I'd give him his own things, but he's broken all of them, I'm going to buy some bones.
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Best Answers: Dog aggressive with toys and food?

Marjeta Marjeta | 1 day ago
A lot of times aggression is misdiagnosed...true aggression is when the dog wants to out and out KILL the other party. If a dog wanted to bite you, he would be able to do so...they are quicker than you. The fact that he did not bite but "warned" you he would indicates he is fear aggressive..sometimes the norm for many small dogs who have been rescued. Please do yourself a favor and get in touch with a GOOD trainer for private sessions...not the box store classes. You need one on one. And you need to work with someone who will be patient and teach YOU how to deal with this dog..and hopefully in time with a lot of work you will have a successful outcome. You will have to start from square one...treat the dog as though it is the first time coming home. Try to see the situation from his eyes...new situation, lots of anxiety. Please be patient...but once you commit to this, you can NEVER back down or slack off. Removing him from the situation doesn't teach him how he is supposed to behave. That is your job. And if he fears strangers, caps etc...you must do desensitization with him. Trust me, time and effort and it WILL work. He also needs boundary training (at the door), and stringent enforcing of the LEAVE IT command. The trainer will be able to show you how you can take an object from the dog without putting your HAND in danger..and after a while, the dog will just learn to give it up. It took me 4 months to resolve this issue with my staffie...and I did get hand shy! But constant training taught us both a lot...and now he is past that phase. Digging can be part of the dachsie experience...it can also be a release of anxiety or boredom. You need to get this dog on a schedule, exercise, play and training. (Re..the vet visit...if he has any medical issues that are causing pain, that can show as aggression as well). In any case, get a trainer and learn to teach the basics...sit, stay, come, down, off, leave it and watch me. If your dog is food motivated I would start with positive reward...if there are difficulties with that, you may need to add firm bbut gentle correction AND positive reward. But if your dog is anxious, your patience and positive reward training is probably the way to go. Once you do about 2 really good weeks of training, begin to incorporate this training into EVERYTHING you do . So you can then start door training by putting him into a sit wait at the door when answering,.. Learn to anticipate what will happen and stop it before it starts. Guaranteed there is something causing the sudden snap to the other dog...it could be a look, or what the chiweenie feels is disrespect, an invasion of personal space...anything. If you really supervise them, you will be able to stop/correct it What you have is the reason that we need to learn to train.;..and training is just the way we communicate with our dogs. The happiest dog is one who knows what we expect of them..and training is what paves the way. Lots more...but start with the basics. Good luck...I hope your good intentions are rewarded!
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Marjeta Originally Answered: Help with a food aggressive mare?
Ah, Gracie, My name is Grace also : ) Your little mare in not reacting because of her past. She is a dominant mare, called alpha mare. This is tough to beat because it is a horses nature to be dominant at feed time. This determines which horse gets the best grass, hay, water, all that. This is how horses get their pecking order. The tougher a scrappy little mare is the more likely she is to be injured by other horses as they challenge her, and they will! Isolating her at feed time is advisable, for her safety as well as the other horses. A well placed kick can end the career if not the life of a good horse. As to her accepting your intrusion at that time, that is another matter. How is she at other times? If she is good and respectful then I would be inclined to feed her in a stall and let her alone. Intruding on her at this time of day is sort of like intruding into her space without the invitation, you do not or should not allow this from her and you should not do it to her. If she is a disrespectful stinker all the time you need to help her out of that. You can not do this with LOVE LOVE LOVE. It takes Love Language and Leadership, not one more than the other. If she is a strong alpha mare, she will need strong leadership in mega doses. Leadership is not angry or mean. It is firm but fair, and above all it is constant. If you are not familiar with dealing with this personality I would suggest you study some Parelli Tapes. I suggest this particular trainer because he reads horses better than most and is an excellent human communicator. He also has a LOT of video material out there to learn from. Once you get the ideas applying them is not all that difficult. Start with something easy like leading properly. A hint, it's NOT what you see at horse shows :) There are a lot of ifs in this response. Sorry about that but they are important.
Marjeta Originally Answered: Help with a food aggressive mare?
she has ulcers (that's a given. a starved horse will have ulcers) ulcers HURT especially when a horse is feeling hungry. this will make her anxious to get to the food. SOLUTIONS: 1. find out from the vet what to give her for ulcers. there are natural remedies as well have her tested first and get advice from a professional. 2. if she's at a good weight or a bit under weight (and not over weight)...she should have access to 24/7 grass hay in a hay net. stuff the hay nets around the area for all the horses. get the nets that have the small holes. this will ensure that everyone has enough food always, ESPECIALLY her. and she won't feel the need to protect her own food so fiercely. when horses (like her especially) get fed only 1 or 2 times per day or even 3 times... they feel they need to protect that food fiercely. if she always has access to food, then she can calm down. most horses will regulate themselves and not pig out when they are allowed to eat when they want to and can. If she's kicking at the other horses, then access to food always will "cure" her of that habit. If she's kicking at YOU or at other people, then she should simply be shooed away before the kicking ever happens (if she pins her ears, she's shooed away). then when she has "happy" ears, perky ears and is looking nice, then she can be invited back for head hugs. when you shoo her simply use a whip to tap that on the ground and make it clear that you don't want her near. don't chase her or otherwise be aggressive. she's being DEFENSIVE not aggressive. she's stressed about something. don't attack her with the whip. simply, ask her to go away. when she goes away, then stop pressuring her to do so. when she looks nicely at you, invite her back. that's it. I would use a nice treat, a carrot or whatever she likes to show her that good behavior gets a reward. lots of head hugs too. rub her face.

Kristy Kristy
Don't pin him on his back. And don't try to take things from him. He needs things that belong to only him. Don't bother him too much either. Give him space.. let him go out for a few hour a day.. maybe on a chain or whatever they use these days. And just tell people to take off their hat and don't talk as loud.
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Jeanna Jeanna
Get a crate and if he trys to bite you put him in for the crate for ten minutes but the food in his face if he trys to take it tell him know and keep repeating it until he learns his lesson. Thats how i taught my dog who would growl when i went near his food
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Jeanna Originally Answered: What is the appropriate thing to do with a puppy who resource guards a bone/food/crate/toys?
I did not read all the answers here except a few and I have to say, of those I most agree with Launi. Truth of it is...all pups will growl when they get a high value treat. How you react that first time sets your foundation of who is in charge. You failed and gave into this cute puppy growling over a bone and now you have a monster that needs to be "fixed" rather than a pup that needs to be taught... So this is a bit more complex dilemma. As we are not there to really see your dogs body language etc it is not easy to tell you how to do things. For instance, I would need to see the dog to know whether he really had FULL intent to bite and protect his bone or if he is just buffaloing. Which many will do. So for starters...NEVER take the bone. You do not take anything from a dog...you make them relinquish it and leave it for you. I think some of the things Launi said here, was pretty good advise for someone to try. Second, this dog should be dragging a drag line. This way if the dog EVER does anything you do not like you can simply pick up the end of the leash and give a good correction without having to touch the dog and risk being bit. The correction MUST match his energy so to speak. No light jerks...You say NO and mean it and give a good jerk at the same time. DARE him to try it again. If he does repeat harder. Seriously, if you gave a good enough correction the first time he probably will not try again. Third, you must remember that altho you did not correct this behavior early on this dog is still a puppy. SO kudos to you for noticing this IS a problem and trying to solve it now rather than when he is 2 yrs old. Because he is still a pup, he is still in some testing phases...You can get ahead of it if you are firm and extremely consistent. However, to me, this is not simply about resource guarding but about reclaiming the fact YOU run the show. Google NILIF training and apply. It would be a cold day in H E double hockey sticks before I "traded" a growling dog for the bone it is growling over. FIne for a 8 wk old pup you are teaching to "drop it" There is a vast difference in how you deal with a dogs behavior in a teaching phase vs correcting or proofing stages. Last, if you are going to GIVE this dog a bone do not tease the dog. Once you give it, you give it. But certainly teach the dog to Wait and back away until you give the ok. If you walk past and he growls at you ...he looses it. Simple. So you really need to work on getting him to move away from it. I have a 90pound American Bulldog pup in my house. If my kids walk over to her when she has a bone...she will walk away from it and come back later. I can tell her to bring it to me and she will drop it in my hands.

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